More Running Around

Did a Half Marathon last Sunday. YAY!! Was slower than when I did one in NY...but ...uh...I'll blame the humidity...

Got back from Vietnam on Friday and the run was on Sunday. So had to do a few runs in Hue and Hoi An.

NO ONE runs in Hue and Hoi An, I swear. People were totally staring - wondering who that crazy, sweaty tourist was.

Unlike in Hanoi, where I could do a few laps around the lake across from the Zephyr Hotel (and across from Bobby Chinn's from those who would find it easier to have a BAR as a landmark), I pretty much had to run along the main roads this time around. So, in Hoi An, I ran from the old quarter...past 18th century houses, padi fields, rickety shophouses, uniformed schoolkids on bikes...towards a bunch of newly-built resorts beside a beach.

Hue was very, VERY cool. I ran across a bridge to the ancient Citadel and Imperial Palace and ran around the palace. Something about running around a really, really old pile of stones.

So this year, I've run under the Sydney Harbour bridge, across from the Opera House in Sydney; I've run along the designer stores on Via Nationale to the Roman Forum and a lap around Circus Maximus; and around the Imperial Palace in Hue. Way cool.

And oh - Vietnam photos here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/geri.wanjun/HoiAnAndHueVietnam

Goooood Morning Vietnam

Went back to Vietnam again for a vacation with my NY friends Adam and Lauree. This time I went to Hue and Hoi An, in central Vietnam.We were walking by the river in Hue one night and saw this girl, reading, by herself, under a bridge. She looked like an Edward Hopper painting.

Hue's the old capital of Vietnam. The main draw's a citadel and a huge palace that's survived a number of wars. Walking into the palace was like walking into the set of a Chinese Kung Fu movie.

I was half expecting mandarins and swordfighters. Didn't see them, but did visit a temple in the palace that was a memorial to the emporers - thirteen of them including a couple who were exiled to French colonies in Africa by the French after Vietnam was colonised.

One Year On...

This time last year I'd just landed in Singapore. Spent my birthday in a plane in between timezones.

It's been a year. Wow.

Had a really good birthday party last night. Really good caterer, two great birthday cakes. yep - TWO cakes. One chocolate and one mille crepe.



Cool new things in the past 12 months:

• I'm working with some really cool, really, really smart people. It's crazy, hectic and sometimes scarey - everything's kinda new. But it's never, ever, dull. Plus we have a pool table at work.
• Asia's totally buzzing. I don't feel like I've moved to another country as much as I've moved continents. Everything's so intertwined. I work with colleagues from 5 or 6 countries at any one time. Walk down my aisle at work and you'll hear English, Chinese, Thai, Korean, Behasa.
  
• Plus Singapore's so centrally located - fly a couple of hours in any direction and it's a whole different world..
• The Esplanade in Singapore: a really, really terrific concert venue. The Arts Fest and Dance Fest brought in some really good arts groups. I keep telling my friend Carolyn who used to be the program director there that the Esplanade's saved my life. OK - slight hyperbole - but it's a great place.
  
• People! New people...people I used to know before I left... This place has become a lot more mixed in the past five years. It's never been a big deal to hear say...French or German being spoken here. But I've started to hear a bunch of Eastern European languages too - which is kinda cool and new.
  

So, yeah - it's been a pretty terrific year. And yes, I still miss Manhattan. And I miss people.

Oh - and here's a nerdy post-script. The photo on the post is Tsutaya - a bookstore in Tokyo that's open till like, 3am. Lots of coffee and cake and art books, mags and CDs. My favourite last night spot in the city. Yeah yeah...I'm such the party animal.

Cool Running

Have been running quite a bit in the past few weeks, starting with Italy in August.

Air France had lost my luggage for an ENTIRE week - running gear and all - and finally delivered it the day before I was about to leave Rome. Scott, who had been running every morning in Rome, mapped out a path for me that went from our hotel, to Via Nationale, to the Forum and Colisseum, and finally Circus Maximus where the chariot races used to be.

It was the COOLEST run - going past the Fendi and Stefanel and the other designer stores, past the art museums and to ancient, ancient Rome. The best part was doing a lap around the Circus Maximus. Felt great to run after all that eating, and eating, and eating - tried to do some healthy shopping so one morning I went to Campo Di Fiori (photo) and bought some fruit back for breakfast with Terry, Scott and Hedy. The figs there were sooooo gooooood.

Back in Singapore, I did a 10k at the Sheares Bridge run with 65000 of my closest friends. It was the longest distance I had run in this humidity. And I was actually glad when it started drizzling halfway through. It was probably good practice - cuz when I did the 9k Terry Fox run it was drizzling the ENTIRE way.

In Tokyo now. Been doing my running on the treadmill in the gym before work. Amazing. At 7 am when I get there, it's already crowded with other business travellers.

The food here is pretty incredible too. Went to Gonpachi earlier in the week - George Bush had gone there when he was in Tokyo. Went to Cafe Bape in Aoyama (it was in a book on Design) and I swear my friend Cynthia and I brought up the average age by a good ten years. Then we walked around Harajuku. 

UMBRIAN WEDDING

My friends Jim and Francesca got married in Todi in Italy a couple of weeks ago. Todi's in Umbria, next to Tuscany. Several of the New York gang went. It was great seeing everyone again.

I thought Chinese weddings were food-filled. But man!! I hadn't been to an Italian wedding before.

After the church service - fantastic choir - sermon in Italian...bilingual readings...really nice old church... all old, grey, stone...we went to the Relais Todini - a hotel up on a hill, and ate from 1 in the afternoon till 6 30.

To be fair, Jim warned us not to eat too much of the antipasto and keep room for the main courses...all uh...five of them. But hey - bruschetta with truffles, lots and lots and LOTS of Procesco, fantastic cheeses, prosciutto e melone...come on! Then we went indoors for our mains. Three hours later, they had to rolled us out for the dessert buffet. I had the best panacotta I've ever had. Wish I had had room for the other stuff.

Better Than Chocolate?

Was running along the beach and listening to a podcast of NPR's Leonard Lopate interview Anthony Bourdain a few days ago. Lopate asked Bourdain (who often raves about Singapore being one of the best food places on the planet) if there might be a link between Singapore's reputation for being authoritarian and the great food.

To hear what Bourdain said, check out the interview: http://www.wnyc.org/shows/lopate/episodes/2006/06/21

(OK - if you want a preview, the answer was "no")

But, it was kinda trippy listening to the very New York-sounding interview when I was running past the Singapore Seafood Centre.

And - here's a message for my friend Lisa, who is always trying to tell me to "slow down" - and gave me a "Slow Down Kit" a few years ago. Today I discovered that the tunnel outside my condo that leads to the beach aka my jogging track also leads to something comPLETEly different. Utter calm and quiet.

Instead of hurtling from appointment to appointment this weekend I decided to walk over to the beach to watch the last of the Singapore International Triathletes finishing up their races.

After that, me, my ipod, the weekend edition of the Asian Wall Street Journal and Monica Ali's new book - Alentejo Blue- went and lay on a park bench under the shade and hung out. I ended up not even turning my ipod on - having the waves in the background was really, really cool. I had never quite understood why Central Park was always crowded with people sitting still on weekends when there's so much to do all around in Manhattan, but now, I'm startin' to get it. Almost - better than chocolate.

Food, Friends, and Music

Spent the whole of last Saturday grocery shopping and cooking. Had people over for dinner. No, the chocolate on this page isn't mine - it's Charles'. He's a REAL pastry chef - as in - he makes his living from it. And he was nice enough to let me photograph him at work.

My Dinner Party Menu:
Watercress/Mango salad (from epicurious.com)
Braised Spare Ribs - from Simple to Spectacular
Carrots Simmered in Orange Juice and cumin
Wasabi Mashed Potatoes

Ming Ruey brought roast duck, Wolf and M brought dessert and Tom was the bartender/ ipod jog-dial jockey.

The best part of the afternoon - being in the kitchen chopping, cutting, browning, and listening to Daniel Barenboim, this year's Reith lecturer, speak about the connection between life and music.

There are five lectures, each done in a city that has figured heavily in his life: Chicago, London, Berlin, Ramallah (that was later switched for security reasons) and Jerusalem. How better to spend a Saturday than listening to a very intellectual, very thought-provoking conversation in anticipation for an evening with some really good friends.

Daniel Baremboim is the Musical Director of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra. He also started the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra, made up of equal numbers of Arab and Israeli young musicians. The CSO contributed hugely to my classical music life, and by extension, my social life, when I was in grad school in Chicago - thanks to five-dollar student tickets to the performances. So, it made the lectures, streamed in my pre-dinner party kitchen, all the more relevant. I highly recommend the taking a listen. My faves were lectures 1 and 4.

Check them out and let me know what you think. http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/reith2006/lecture1.shtml

Hello from Hanoi

Went to Hanoi over the weekend with Carrie, Michael and Tom.

Hanoi was really different from Saigon. Where Saigon felt fast, practical, commercial, Hanoi felt more rooted, with a stronger sense of place.

Tom wanted to go see Ho Chi Minh in the Mausoleum so off we trekked Saturday morning, in torrential rain. When we got there, I found out I wasn't dressed correctly (I was in a sleeveless tank and shorts. The rest of the crew was in jeans and Ts.)

"Miss cannot go in," the guard said gruffly. So, Miss had to buy a sarong (USD5) and borrow a T shirt that's left there for ...well, people like me who don't read guidebooks carefully. So, the four of us queued up for 30 minutes in the long, snaking line, with some protection from the storm by our $3 Hello Kitty umbrellas from the store next to the hotel.

We eventually into the building - and were herded in and out in about three minutes.

Spent the rest of our time at art galleries and in search of great pho. Found a really, really REALLY cool gallery that showcases new Vietnamese artists. (Art Vietnam 30, Hang Than); went to a show by art school students, complete with cheap wine and New York-like conversation, and some really promising art.

Had pho at three places. And the last place was the best - according to pho expert Carrie. Unfortunately we can't tell you the name - cuz we never found out what it was called. We saw this looooong queue outside this pho stall on our way to a cafe called La Place for breakfast. (Had decent crepes and very good coffee, great service and a good view of St Peter's Church). And being dutiful foodies, Carrie, Tom and Michael trooped back there for their second breakfast while I wondered around with my camera. So, all we can say is - this really cool pho place is around the corner from St Peter's someplace.

Best restaurant that weekend: Green Tangerine, for contemporary french at really reasonable prices
Best drinking place: Bobby Chinn's for atmosphere and for drinks that are uh...truly lethal.

Pigging Out in Cambodia

Last minute decision to go to Cambodia over the long weekend with a couple of friends.

We stayed at really basic places - backpacker hotels at US$15 a nght.

OK...so it had a homey B&B feel to it. And there was that massive brownout l

It's been five years since I last went gto Angkor Wat and I can't believe how many hotels there are paving the road from the Aiport.

Once you get past those cookie cutter guest houses, the temples are magnificent, the food is cheap, and (I don't think we paid more than $5 each for any meal). so that we could eat lots
, and the nightlife is really revving up.

I wish I could go there just for weekends / evenings and the come back in time for work after . 

All Moved In

It's SO nice to
*wake up in my own space - even if the apartment's mostly empty
*have my own stuff around me again
*be able to have friends over
*wake up to the sound of birds chirping (man are they loud)
*be a five-minute run away from the beach

I'm all moved in! Albeit sans furniture. The photo's the view from my room at around midnight.

The past few weeks have been a mad rush of work and dealing with the apartment. I think I've seen every furniture store on this island. And then some.

Unfortunately most of them seemed to stock the same stuff as everyone else, but I managed to find a few places that design and build their own stuff. So I'm happy to say that, apart from a couple of pieces (including a red, peanut-shaped desk from Ikea), the rest are Singapore designed and constructed.

Found interesting furniture at Evov on East Coast Rd, Air Division in Changi, and Urban Foundry at Purvis Street. Always interested to hear about others if anyone has suggestions.

Saturday was a frenzy of apartment-related activity:

The storage guys came at 9; the air-con guy at 10 30, sometime in between, the contractors came to finish the cabinets in the kitchen, then my mother came with the cleaning lady at 1. Then there was Ikea at 4 30. For less than $10US, Ikea assembled my stuff in minutes (must have been the power drills)

Most of my furniture's not all in yet, so when a few of my friends came over Saturday after dinner, we used my sister's huge beanbag, and what little furniture I brought back from NY. (A West Elm chair and a Thai cushion.)

My friend Charles, a pastry chef, brought over Black Forest Cake, Mango Cheesecake, Marble Cheesecake and Chocolate Cake. I meant to serve ice cream as well, but it got all melted because I uh...put it in the wrong compartment in the fridge. What can I say - new, unfamiliar fridge...it turned out the freezer was on the bottom-most compartment!

But man, it felt good to go grocery shopping and get my own stuff this afternoon. At least now I know where everything goes in the fridge.

Another Weekend, Another Train


Was in Bangkok Thursday and Kuala Lumpur Friday.

Here's a globalised, mobile workforce for you. When I was at my meeting in Bangkok my sister was at her meeting in Pattaya. Different ends of the same country. Photo's from the hotel in Bangkok.

A couple of years ago, when I was still living in NY, my brother came over on a business trip and I had to meet him at La Guardia Airport or not see him at all. I was flying back to NY after a vacation in Santa Fe and he was flying back home to Singapore after a meeting in NY. (Actually, it sounded more like lots of golf in Jersey on an expense account.) My plane was coming in a couple of hours before his was due to leave - so we grabbed a quick dinner at some chain restaurant.

So...last Saturday, I was taking a train in from my hotel in Sentral to the KL Airport, and if I closed my eyes, I could almost pretend I was on a Metro North going from Westchester to the city. It was 3pm on a Saturday, I had my iPod in its pink case (except it's now a nano), and I had Jay McInerney's latest book, The Good Life, on my lap. It could have been a typical NY weekend commute into Manhattan, waiting to get off at 125 St or Grand Central. Except that when I looked up from listening to SiSe while reading about discontented upper middle class New Yorkers, I saw ... coconut trees and the thick, unrelenting equatorial rain.

My favourite line from the book is a description of a couple with two kids who live in loft in Tribeca. The male protagonist works in publishing - as opposed to finance. "They felt like paupers living in a town of zillionaires."

Oh yeah - that's NY.

Running East

It’s been four months since I’ve been back. Unbelieveable huh?

Of course I miss New York – but not in the ways I expected. Most days I’m working so much I don’t have time to think about anything else anyway. (EVERYONE works like mad here…my friend Khor Peng says he’d like to cut down his hours – to 12. Carrie goes back into her office practically every weekend.)

So, a couple of nights ago, I’m lying in bed, about to fall asleep, when this image of NY Route 134 – my drive home from Somers to Ossining – just slams into me. And there’s this sudden, intense longing inside my gut. For what, I don’t really know.

I’m trying to get back into some of the routine I had in NY – the running, the tennis, …oh jeez it’s humid here. I barely do 3km and I’m drenched. DRENCHED. I do 5km and it feels like a major accomplishment. Don’t know if I’ll ever be able to do another half marathon. At least this close to the equator.

And – I found a running group that meets every Saturday on East Coast Park. But they run pretty late. 8am. It gets hot. My ideal is right before 7. And I run along the beach listening to Leonard Lopate podcasts on my new nano (my old iPod isn't working so well). It’s not quite the same as running in Central Park (see photo), but still…

Of course, I’m trying to replicate one of my favourite NY staples here – FOOD! Cool restaurants but without the attitude. And there are more and more good restaurants sprouting up here. Now if the wait staff were as good as the chefs…

So, last night I organized a dinner party at one of the hottest new restaurants in town – PS Café. (For review, check out Chubby Hubby’s blog at http://www.chubbyhubby.net/2005/12/new-it-restaurant-in-town.html) It was tough enough getting a reservation. But the REAL tough part was trying to get some kind of a gender balance. Also wanted to make sure I didn’t put together a table where everyone already knew everyone else. Anyway, the place, the food, and company, turned out to be great. So, all the agro was worth it.

Plus my friend Carolyn brought along her friend Charles, who’s a PASTRY chef. SCORE! Can’t wait to try out the stuff in his shop.

The weirdest thing is, you know what I really, really, miss? The weekend Metro North train rides along the Hudson into the City, with the Sunday NY Times and especially the Sunday Times mag for company. 

Schmoozing in Sydney

Spent Australia Day in Sydney a couple of weeks ago (Jan 26th).

Food was great, guys were cute, and running in 20something degrees celcius and very very low humidity around Darling Harbour was terrific.

Oh - and a waiter tried to convince me to have Lambingtons for breakfast in honour of Australia Day, but I settled for toast, jam and cappucino instead. I'm not quite into having coconut-covered chocolatey cake for breakfast yet. Plus, I think it was Australian humour.

Sydney's always had great restaurants: innovative chefs incorporating cooking styles and ingredients from the many ethnicities living there, fresh ingredients, cool restaurant design and terrific service.

NY Times late last year had a feature on how the best food in the world is now in Sydney. It's also gotten a lot more expensive in the time I've been away - can't have it both ways I guess. Sydney's now one of the costliest places in the world to buy property.

Ate at:
Est - http://www.miettas.com/Australia/New_South_Wales/Sydney/Est.html
Consistently listed as one of Sydney's top restaurants.

Sugarroom - dinner was good, but dessert was even better. We had actually finished dinner and was on the way out the door when a Japanese co-worker reminded us that we hadn't had dessert yet so we went back in.

Ripples - right under the Sydney Harbour Bridge with a great view of the Sydney Opera House.

Wi fi's a Piece of Cake In Singapore...

OK - fair disclosure - the terrific fruit pie and pot of earl grey in the photo wasn't shot in Singapore. It was in Tokyo - of course. In a terrific patisserie called Qu'il Fait Bien.

The fruits were fresh, juicy and substantial, the custard was light, and the crust...buttery and crisp. One thing though, get there before 3pm or you'll be queuing like mad.

Am in Singapore now. Just finished a tennis game (it was sooooo humid by 8 30am) and now I'm at a cafe at the beach wi-fi-ing and watching the terribly toned roller bladers go by while I'm having an Ok Earl Grey. (oooh, cute french guy with motorcycle helmet just walked by. No, Lauree and Michelle, I didn't have guts to chat him up.)

And of course, this being Saturday, I HAVE to read the NY Times. Even if it's only online. And I thought this little segment from the arts pages might amuse you. (Richard Serra sculptures were one of the first things I saw in Chelsea when I first got to NY.) Well, here it is:

Lost: 76,000-Pound Sculpture
Say, has anyone noticed a homeless 38-ton steel sculpture lately? If so, the Reina Sofía Museum in Madrid would like to know about it. The sculpture happens to be the work of the American artist Richard Serra, and the museum paid about $220,000 for it in 1987. Now it seems to be missing, The Associated Press reported. The four stark steel slabs were exhibited and then sent to a warehouse run by a company specializing in large art. The company was dissolved in 1998, the daily newspaper ABC said, and when the museum's director, Ana Martínez de Aguilar, decided a few months ago to display the sculpture again, it could not be found.

Blogging from SQ 11 flying from Narita to Singapore

So - I'm on a plane right now listening to Vengerov play a Beethoven Concerto, connected to the web thanks to Singapore Airlines, Boeing, and er...my Mastercard.

Priceless? Well, actually, $30 for the duration of the flight. Or as long as my Thinkpad T42 battery lasts.

And, the photo on this post isn't airline food - especially not on Econo - although I have to admit, SQ food isn't bad at all. Dinner was soba, rice, veg, chicken, and strawberry ice cream. Oh, and a half decent riesling.

The sashimi was part of dinner on Sunday night with my friend June and her husband. She and I had been talking about hanging out in Kyoto together for years (thank you Pico Iyer) but we've never quite made it - so she did the next best thing and took me to a Kyoto restaurant. )(It's so trad it doesn't have an English name. Really.) Dinner was fab, of course, along with the company and the view.

Tokyo feels like it's on a total revival kick (although nothing like the energy level of Shanghai yet). Construction everywhere, new buildings, ... green tea latte...people lining up to get into the new Chloe store in Aoyama...and actually walking out with shopping bags. I mean...CHLOE? Front page story on the Asian Wall St Journal today: "Mitsubishi UFJ plans to raise its Global Profile" - targetting to be the world's top five on profitability w/in 3-5 years. Yep...it's coming baaaack.

I was in a cab on my way from TCAT to my hotel after my overnight (econo) flight, and I was thinking, after having left NY for two-and-a-half months, I don't feel like I moved home to Singapore as much as I am part of this large, inter-connected place called Asia.

Seems like a pretty cool place to be exploring right now. 

How's The Future?

I received three Asia-related emails and IM's within a space of a few weeks that I found pretty interesting.

"How's the future? I'm back in the past." - a ping from a friend of mine who went back to San Francisco after hanging out in Singapore and Saigon over the Xmas break.

"Taipei has become very posh and reminded me of New York in some ways." - a Taiwanese friend who has lived in the US for more than a decade and was back in Taipei for a visit.

And, finally...this is from one of my favourite bosses ever (even if he DID go to University of Chicago instead of Northwestern). He's lived all over...Singapore, US, Hong Kong, Beijing...and he moved to Shanghai a few years ago.

"Eleven months ago, [my wife] was deciding between Siemens and HaiEr for the choice of washing machine and dryer. Not finding any functional differences between the two brands, she opted for the cheaper and younger brand of HaiEr. A couple of months ago, one of them broke down and KB called their service center which promised to send a technician out the next day by noon.

Half an hour before noon, the service center called KB to ask if the technician called. Apparently he did not. The service center called back shortly that the technician would be in touch with us. He called immediately to apologize because he believed he was close to our house. He called at noon to tell us that he would be at least an hour late because our house turned out to be farther than he thought. The service center and the technician kept us informed of any delay and the reason in the next hour. After it was fixed, the service center called the next day if the machine was OK. Since KB had to ask Ah Yi, they called back again the next day. It is service which is unheard of and unmatched in all the major cities which we have lived in. And it is now happening in China. "

And that...I think, is a snippet from the future.