Went to Hanoi over the weekend with Carrie, Michael and Tom. 
Hanoi was really different from Saigon. Where Saigon felt fast, practical, commercial, Hanoi felt more rooted, with a stronger sense of place.
Tom wanted to go see Ho Chi Minh in the Mausoleum so off we trekked Saturday morning, in torrential rain. When we got there, I found out I wasn't dressed correctly (I was in a sleeveless tank and shorts. The rest of the crew was in jeans and Ts.)
"Miss cannot go in," the guard said gruffly. So, Miss had to buy a sarong (USD5) and borrow a T shirt that's left there for ...well, people like me who don't read guidebooks carefully. So, the four of us queued up for 30 minutes in the long, snaking line, with some protection from the storm by our $3 Hello Kitty umbrellas from the store next to the hotel.
We eventually into the building - and were herded in and out in about three minutes.
Spent the rest of our time at art galleries and in search of great pho. Found a really, really REALLY cool gallery that showcases new Vietnamese artists. (Art Vietnam 30, Hang Than); went to a show by art school students, complete with cheap wine and New York-like conversation, and some really promising art.
Had pho at three places. And the last place was the best - according to pho expert Carrie. Unfortunately we can't tell you the name - cuz we never found out what it was called. We saw this looooong queue outside this pho stall on our way to a cafe called La Place for breakfast. (Had decent crepes and very good coffee, great service and a good view of St Peter's Church). And being dutiful foodies, Carrie, Tom and Michael trooped back there for their second breakfast while I wondered around with my camera. So, all we can say is - this really cool pho place is around the corner from St Peter's someplace.
Best restaurant that weekend: Green Tangerine, for contemporary french at really reasonable prices
Best drinking place: Bobby Chinn's for atmosphere and for drinks that are uh...truly lethal.
