In Praise of the Staycation
Here's what weekend aren't anymore: shopping sprees, chi-chi restaurants, spa trips to the Banyan Tree, frequent short holidays around the region. Well, not too much anyway.

So, last Saturday, I decided to go take one of the free Walking Tours the National Library organised in conjunction with the Society of Tourist Guides in Singapore. Did a 45 minute tour around the Middle Road, Purvis Street, Beach Road area, learned about the Hainanese (and why they make such good pork chop) and then I had chicken rice at Yet Con on Purvis - the guy still uses the abacus when he does the bills. Picked up lots of great trivia, and even went to the library to borrow a couple of books. (Yep, less of Borders for me, but that's another story.

One of the books I brought home was Discover Singapore on Foot. It's a coupla years out of date, but fun nonetheless. And it came in useful when I took a photo class on Sunday around the Joo Chiat area. Four hours circling four streets: East Coast Road at the Junction of Marshall Road, then Joo Chiat, to Koon Seng and Tembeling, and then back to Marshall.

There's a ton of restoration that's been going on. OK, so the shophouses aren't as luxe as the ones on Neil Road, but they've still got more character in a 1 sq km area than most parts of the rest of the island. Art Galleries next to bars. And get this: a Temptations bakery next to a girly bar called I Love You. Of course there are the peranakan restaurants - where a couple of months ago you could walk in and get a table for dinner with no problem, but thanks to the Little Nyonya, reservations are now required.

I'm definitely going to be spending more time doing some neighborhooding on weekends. And Joo Chiat still has no Starbucks, no chainstores, no Gap, no Zara. Long live independant businesses and 'hoods with character.

Ipoh Kway Teow

Am in Ipoh for five days for the Chinese New Year. I don't think I've spent this much time here since I was in secondary school and didn't mind not being out and about.

But this is fine. My grandmother's in her 90s and still has the best smile ever. And the food's still the best.

Ipoh looks like the 70s came here and never left. Although Starbucks has arrived. Otherwise, it's narrow streets, grey shophouses, nice sized bungalows built from old money in town, wood and corrugated iron huts on the outskirts. And still better hawker food than anywhere else I know.

The best prawn mee hor fun I've had: Restoran New Hollywood at Canning Garden.

Best wonton mee: In Greentown, at the block of shophouses across from New Town White Coffee.

More food tomorrow. But, for now, I've hocked my privacy in return for WiFi at Starbucks - I mean - do they REALLY need to know my gender, race, country of origin, income and the some? I'm OK to watch that 70 second ad at log-in, but really. Then again, there's no broadband at my grandmother's.

Five days in Ipoh. I'm hoping to get a lot of reading done. I've got The Economist and four books. I've just finished Towelhead, and I'm starting on Slumdog Millionaire. And my iPod is getting lots and lots of use. God bless Steve.

Make a Smilebox slideshow

Water and Views
Cecilia, Fann and I went to the Marina Barrage last week. It's Singapore's newest reservoir, right smack in the middle of the city. I mean, it's just a place to store water for goodness sakes. And it's a public works project to boot.

But what a nice job they've done with it. It's got a great view at night, and they've made really good use of the water theme. Couples were out walking next to the reservoir, kids were running in between the water sprays at the fountains, along with some parents.

And now young dating couples have one more place to make out.

But seriously, we used to be such a pragmatic, utilitarian society with no use for design or aethetics. (or for conservation, but that's aonther story) I'm glad it's changing now, and I'm glad we're combining form with function.

Most of all, I'm glad that even public projects are getting a soul.

Xmas Desserts


Charles has a new cake out for Christmas at Classic Cakes. Comes in plain custard, chocolate (YUMMY!! I'm not just saying this because I'm a chocoholic), and uh...Durian.

Sweeeet!

Lion Getting Ready to Have Giraffe Steak for Lunch

We were in the jeep following a giraffe when suddenly Floris, our guide at the S African Game Reserve, notices two lions coming out of the bush. The male stays behind, the lioness slowly prowls toward the giraffe.

"The lioness is going for the kill," he says.

"Should we warn the giraffe?" someone says.

"No! This is nature. Besides, the lions have got to feed. I'm not sure if this lion will get the giraffe though. She's very young, not very experienced."

We watch, silent. We're probably all hoping the giraffe gets away. The lion comes in from behind. The giraffe spots her and gallops. They're almost neck to neck - or rather, fang to hoof. But the giraffe is faster. He gets away, this time.

"Would the lioness really have gotten the giraffe?" someone asks. "The giraffe is so much taller and faster."

"Yeah if she were smart," said Floris. "If she had jumped on his back while he was drinking and got him into the water, he'd have been finished."

And that's how the game is played. Even if it's only in a Game Reserve.

Peking Duck Fusion

Yesterday a Beijing cabbie asked me which part of CHINA I come from:
"You sound like you're from the South," he said. "Guangzhou?"
Nope. OK - so I AM Cantonese, technically.
"Fujian."
Nope.
He went on with a couple more provinces and finally guessed Singapore when I told him to guess a country.
But yay! He didn't think I was a banana! PROGRESS! This is big deal for a CHIJ girl - a school that created fear and hopelessly among Chinese teachers - our Chinese was so bad. And where a friend of mine who got an A in Chinese hid it from everyone else.
That afternoon, I was able to tell another cabbie which route I wanted him to take (4th Ring Road - it's further but faster). And believe me, they don't speak English.
I guess after three weeks here I SHOULD sound less rough around the edges, and I found myself writing an address for the cabbie in Chinese, I'd seen it so many times in tiny type on the guidebook. And I surprised myself by using a colloquial phrase to respond to someone who wanted to exchange pins.
My Chinese is no where near some of my Beijing colleagues' English. One of them half jokingly said I was OK for a foreigner. Maybe if I stayed here longer I'd be passable.
But the point is this - learning Chinese now seems a lot easier than when I was in school. It's not because I have to, I don't. All my work is conducted in English.
I think we put so much pressure on kids in school that learning isn't fun anymore. It's just something we have to do - like eating cod liver oil - the barf-inducing liquid kind, not the capsules. We'd probably go further if we took ourselves less seriously.
It's like my highschool social studies teacher told me: Don't let academics interfere with your education.
My Chinese was hopeless till I went to grad school and in Washington DC, I dated a Taiwanese IP lawyer. The next time my Chinese improved was when I went to New York and had a Beijinger for a colleague two-desks down.
Neither of my Chinese skill spikes happened in Asia. Go figure.